Shirt
Cotton
  • the higher the tread count the more fragile the cotton
  • 120 - 180 thread count 200 thread count shirts are possible
  • pima cotton
  • peached cotton
  • luxurious Italian broadcloth
  • 200-thread-count Egyptian cotton
  • made of heavy English silk
  • "When I put on a white shirt, it's the same feeling as getting into crisp, fresh sheets at night," Tom Ford says. "I just feel good in them.
  • made by London's famed Jermyn Street shirtmakers,
  • to get the best out of the most important item in your closet, choose carefully.
  • Nuances of cuff (barrel or French), collar (semi-spread or point), and fabric (Panama or broadcloth) speak volumes.
  • Chris Cox, creative director of Nautica and a white-shirt connoisseur, has an extensive collection he selects from according to his mood.
  • "Right now my favorite is in a micro-textured cotton with a spread collar and barrel cuff," he says. "I have more than 20." It’s a start.
  • For bigger guys, box pleats—two folds between the shoulder blades—offer a little more room without unsightly volume.
  • Sweat is kryptonite to white shirts.
  • Use a stain remover like OxiClean on collar rings and pit patches.
  • Wash the shirt in hot water, air-dry it until slightly damp, then iron it. And no starch.
  • Contrary to popular belief, the dry cleaner's special sauce eats away at fabric.

Oxford vs. Poplin

  • It's a classic matchup: oxford cloth versus poplin.
  • One is thick and rugged, the other stately and delicate.
  • Thom Browne, perhaps the fashion world's preeminent evangelist for the oxford button-down,
  • defends his go-to shirt against Jean-Claude Colban, owner of the storied Paris shirtmaker Charvet and a dedicated poplin man.
  • Poplin is masculine and suited for a government minister who needs durability when he's on the road.
  • Most oxford cloth used in the United States is pinpoint,
  • which means that the thread is smaller, not as fluid, and less brilliant.
  • Poplin has a higher thread count and is, consequently, more expensive.
  • For this reason the American oxford looks sportier and our shirts more dressed-up.
Collar
  • Spread collar
  • with anywhere from 3½ to 6 inches between the collar points.
  • the Italians go wider and wear more Flamboyant ties to cover up all the neck real estate
  • The wider collars are often referred to as a Cutaway collar.
  • The spread is the most formal style outside of formal wear.
  • banded collar
Measurements
  • 48 european
  • 36 american
  • off the rack shirts will never due, you are too skinny
  • even the Dolce and Gabbanna prophylactically slim cut shirts do not fit you right, they are too tight at the waist
Yoke
  • one piece yoke
Shoulder Pleating
  • hand gathered shoulder pleating
Shoulder Vents
  • hidden shoulder vents
Gussets
  • side gussets
  • double-ply tailoring
Placket
  • A placket is an opening in a garment or the overlapping layers of fabric that cover or disguise such an opening.
  • discreetly protruding silk liner in identically coloured polka dots
  • expertly tailored front placket
  • who knew a placket could be this fine-looking?
  • to the perfectly proportioned collar
Tails
  • cropped, nearly straight-hemmed tails aren't made for tucking.
  • gentle scallop" tail
Banker's Collar
  • use to be a sign of cheapness on the bankers part
  • the collar and cuffs experience the highest friction
  • your collar especially is subjected to high oil contents from you hair
  • you hands discolour and stain your cuffs easily
  • instead of buying a new shirt when the collars and cuffs wear out
  • bankers would have the collars and cuffs replaced instead of replacing the whole shirt
  • it being impossible to match fabrics after they have aged the bankers opted for white
  • as mechanization took place and buying a new shirt became the cheaper solution
  • this style perversely evolved into a mark of quality denoting that the shirt in its first incarnation was worth saving
  • also known as the contrast collar
Linen
  • made from fibres of the flax seed plant
  • wrinkles very easily
  • heavy and stiff
  • however, it is light and breathable
  • should be ironed while still wet
  • should be air dried never put in a dryer
  • 18 dollars for 2 1/2 yards of fabric at designer fabrics on Queen
Solid Colours
  1. pink
  2. baby blue
  3. grey
  4. yellow
  5. royal blue
Strips
  1. pink
  2. baby blue
  3. grey
  4. yellow
  5. royal blue
  6. white with black stripes
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